View Full Version : 1JZ swap?
DonS1mpson
11-08-07, 12:52 PM
My crank pulley problem has made me start to seriously consider pulling the 7M-GE in favor of something that isn’t as limited in the potential power department, which has led me to the thought of maybe doing a 1JZ swap into my MA70.
I was thinking about buying myself a written off soarer, taking everything from it engine and transmission wise and breaking the rest of the car for parts.
I was wondering if anyone here has attempted a 1JZ swap? I know quite a few of you have import cars, but I’d ideally prefer to spend quite a bit less than the cost of an imported car, which I think is possible seeing as spares and repairs soarer have sold for less than £500 on ebay.
Thanks
Josh
Martin P
11-08-07, 01:05 PM
look on either supraforums or supramania, as the americans do this conversion a lot, one member has done it have a search on here.
Also you had better get some insurance quotes first!!!!:cheeky:
DonS1mpson
11-08-07, 01:14 PM
I found out a long time ago that I'm going to be able to get insurance on any supra when I start driving, so when I get it finished, i'll be letting my mum drive it and I'll probably end up getting myself an old 5 series. :crybaby:
I've looked into the swap on SF and SM, and I get confused that we in the UK as able to do it so cheaply, I for some reason think that I'm forgetting something vital.
Will the auto box in the soarer work in the supra with the 1JZ installed? Or should I go R154 right away?
once you've added it all up mate it aint cheap.. in fact its just as expensive as importing a 1JZ, if not more so. Thats why no-one does it in this country.
ECU, bellhousing, engine, loom, mounts, fans, etc etc .. the 1JZ from a soarer doesnt just drop straight in and you'll need other parts from a 1JZ supra... and they aint easy to come by.
DonS1mpson
11-08-07, 03:46 PM
But surely if I used the everything from a soarer I'd be able to save myself a bit.
The only parts that I can think of that I'll need on mounts and a different sump...
In that case, it Looks like I might have to go 7M-GTE, they're a straight swap right?
BigSupe
11-08-07, 04:15 PM
The sump is 270quid +vat from MR T
The best option if you are doing a conversion is to get a half cut imported, everything is there you can see how parts fit and come off etc. I found slight differences between some parts whilst I was doing the conversion
majic79
11-08-07, 06:27 PM
I'm pretty sure the 1JZ will bolt up to a 2JZ sump - in which case find a 2JZ-GE Supra being broken and have the sump off that - you need to drill out a blanked hole and tap the holes either side of it, but that'll get you an oil return for the turbos, and the sump is the right shape for the A70 Supra.
If you get an auto soarer, you should be able to use the Autobox from a Supra to bolt up to it (use the Soarer bellhousing), although I don't know how reliable/long it'll last (you'll also want the propshaft to go with it and possibly the diff, or the ratios might be a mite short) electrically, it'll be a bloody mare, make sure you get everything required to do it.
why cant he use/why dont you use a 2JZ? are they not turbo engines?
i have no idea on this hence the question!
2JZ's came in both GE and GTE (twin) formats. They also came in VVTi form later on (post '97?).
Similar differences between them like the 7M as well - the 2JZ-GE uses a dizzy, while the 2JZ-GTE uses coil-on-plug ignition.
DonS1mpson
11-08-07, 09:08 PM
why cant he use/why dont you use a 2JZ? are they not turbo engines?
i have no idea on this hence the question!
I think a 2JZ-GE swap will require the same amount of work as a 2JZ-GTE swap, which is a lot from what I hear.
I'm still keeping my options opens though, I just want the most bang for buck I can get.
majic79
12-08-07, 12:07 AM
the 2JZ-Ge would probably be easier, the gearbox is pretty much the same W58 that the 7M-GE uses, just a different end section to connect to the prop.
Mechanically, it's pretty easy to do, the hard part is wiring. I've got a couple of issues with no tacho and no temp gauge (temp is down to the wrong sender I think, not sure about the tacho) had to re-route a few things, and learnt the hard way why it's easier to get a Supra JZA80 front cut, than an engine and buy the rest etc. Anyway, mine's done now. You'll probably find it easier to get a 2JZ than a 1JZ. The 2JZ-GE's are pretty cheap - I nearly picked one up off ebay for £100, the GTE's are well sought after and I picked up mine after hunting round hard.
Some of the engine dealers were quoting me upwards of £1400 for a bare engine, I managed to get an engine and all ancillaries (except loom, ecu/igniter and starter) for £750. But spent about £1k or so on other parts to get it all in (mostly off Mr T's shelf)
After taking my car apart and rebuilding it, I want to replace the shell and a few other bits, so I'm going to look at getting an import car/shell to rebuild from. I also want to tweak suspension and brakes a little, so more money to spend yet :D
nigel w
12-08-07, 12:48 AM
Don, If you have money, ANYTHING is possible - even a 1JZ swap!
The USA guys do the 1J swaps because the CAN'T import complete cars. And if they could they'd end up with a right-hooker!
Why re-invent the wheel when you can BUY a JZA70? Toyota have SAVED you the frustration and made one for you - you just have to save up and buy it! If you really want to do an engine conversion then go 2J or for something with 8 cylinders (or more :) ). Make the effort, frustration and expense really count for something and swap something SPECIAL!
Dangermouse
13-08-07, 02:07 AM
I thought the common swap in America was 2J into a mk3 as the 2J is more powerful as standard & (more or less) just as complicated to exchange. One forum member has done it, cant remember his name but was at JAE 2006 & someone else here is currently undergoing a 2J swap
the US lot do the 1j swap, rarely the 2j.
people do it ocasionally but in truth the 1J is just as capable an engine and an easier swap.
Penfold
13-08-07, 10:38 AM
I know this is probably going to be seen in the wrong light, but have you tightened that pulley bolt yet? It might just need that doing and be OK to run for a while. I had a similar problem on mine a while back and it was banging and knocking like crazy! The application of a competent mechanic and some chemical metal and a bit of time, and it's still on song now! Now I now how to do it, I'd be happy to talk you through the job.
DonS1mpson
13-08-07, 11:57 AM
Well penfold, if you know how to help me get my current engine to last a bit longer, let me know.
It's an amazing engine when you consider the age of car - It starts first time, doesn't leak any oil (anymore :)) and pulls pretty hard, it would be a shame to get rid of it just yet, but I do want to have at least started an engine swap by this time next year, regardless if I can fix my current motor.
Thanks
cptsideways
14-08-07, 12:33 AM
JZZ30 will bolt straight in sump wise ;)
Fit a 2JZ water pump & the 7m viscous fan will fit your 7m rad
some fiddling with engine mounts but thats easy
Wiring is quite simple (I managed it eventually & I'm no sparky)
Lots of GZ20 MZ20 MA70 swaps in Auz, loads of em check Toymods
1JZ's complete are £300-£400 they are dirt cheap engines (they don't go bang so little demand for em) pm for a number
My GZ20 is essentially the same as an GA70 which is much the same as MA70 its all identical under the bonnet near enough.
Lastly it wont blow up! what more do you need :D
Complete with loom and turbo's?! *blinks*
r.killa
15-08-07, 07:18 PM
if you want to have an easier life i would recommend saving up a few more pennies and getting a 1jz car complete, these cheap soarers on e bay, if the engines were good would they be going for 500 notes for the whole car?
buy what you want in the first place because i rekon it will save you money in the long term and will be more reliable than a hybrid of a car which will then cost even more to insure. i also find that imports are generally rust free and not the phrase "rust free" as used by uk owners which generally means it will go through a few mot's before needing stripping down and welding everywhere. they don't use salt on the road in foriegn parts unlike us morons over here. don't forget when you buy a mk3 it will be at least 15 years old so thats fifteen salty winters it has had to cope with and finding a genuinely mint one is getting harder every day. use the n/a to learn to drive in and get your first few dings out of the way. there is no shame in driving an na about (so long as you have a 1jz at home!), complaints to the usual address please............snigger!))
cptsideways
16-08-07, 12:43 AM
Soarers are cheap because no-one seems to realise how much of a q car bargain they are!!! 170mph in standard trim with the limiter removed ;) They do seem to suffer from body damage easily with such big panels & the cost to repair essentially writes them off. And they are almost always slushboxes. If you find a manual one let me know.
Never yet seen a dud JZ yet, a few misfires from faulty coil packs though (ive got 12 here going spare) or occasional dudd turbos but never anything major.
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