EGR (Exhaust Gas Return) removal procedure?

[imoyes]

Right,
I've bought my stainless EGR block off plates (from suprastar90).

I've read the Supra Workshop Manual (available from me on CD-R for £2 inc. P&P) about what the system does and now I'm ready to start unbolting things. :)

I wanted to A: just double check with the guys in the know that I'm doing the right thing and B: see if we could use the thread to show everybody else what to do (so excuse me if I seem to be trying to teach my granny to suck eggs :yes: ).

The EGR recirculates hot exhaust gases into the intake when the coolant is hot, the engine revs are below 5,200RPM and the throttle is open. This is a good thing for emissions but a bad thing for your engine running as it's sucking hot, exhaust laden gas.

The EGR valve sits behind the right hand side (as you look in from the front of the engine bay) of the cylinder head and bolts between the plenum and the inlet manifold.

It seems to me, from the schematics in the manual, that I want to unbolt (two 10mm nuts on either end of the pipe supporting the valve) the EGR valve and fit two of the EGR block off plates I bought (one marked M anifold and one marked P lenum). Do I dry fit them or use gasket compound?

AND

I want to do away with the EGR vacuum modulator (the valve on top of the cylinder head that the EGR valve is attached to) and the VSV (the other thing the EGR vacuum modulator is attached to, via several bits of hose and pipe down the right side of the block) as well.

THEN

I cap off the vacuum hose that was attached to the EGR port on the throttle body.

Have I got it about right?

[Adam W]

That should do it :yes:

Apart from anything else, removing the EGR setup makes the engine bay look tidier and makes head/inlet removal easier.

[Stewface]

I have my Blanks fitted to rear of head and onto inlet manifold. I was also thinking of removing the 2 valves under inlet manifold (as they have come adrift from their mountings and 1 has been squashed), but I'm not really sure what they do. Can anyone shed any light on what these valves do?

The valves have a 2 pin electrical connector on them and 2 vacuum pipes and a small air filter thing - I have looked in manuals, but the description is very vague.

Any help?

[darket69]

the valve at the forward of the bay is the fuel pressure up valve . this prevents hard starting due to fuel evaporation due to heat soak .. the next valve is the egr valve and can be removed without issue

[Lofty]

Do I dry fit them or use gasket compound?
My SupraSport ones came with a paper gasket which seems to be holding up OK. You can buy gasket paper and make your own. I also used some Blue Hylomar on my paper gaskets. I guess you could try and re-use you old gaskets or buy new ones from Toyota.

If possible use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts and bolts to save from stripping the threads in the aluminium, or simply don't overtighten.

Good thread, Ian, as this subject often comes up.

[imoyes]

OK, jobs done now, here's what happened.

I found that the installer had fitted the siren for my Clifford alarm to the fire wall on the passengers side and it was in the way, so after trying to work round it for a while I removed it, and it's forearm-tearing bracket. :rant:

The two bolts on the inlet manifold side are easy to get to, you'll find them on the back of the inlet manifold and they come off, fairly easily, with a 10mm spanner.

The two nuts on the other end are a different matter. They have been subjected to more heat and are a right b@$t@rd to get to. They take a 12mm spanner. I couldn't get to these, then couldn't budge them when I did, so using a mirror-on-a-stick to see them I plastered them with WD40 and moved on.

I decided to remove everything I could, whilst I waited for the oil to penetrate.

Half way down the pipe, attached to the EGR valve, is a screw-collar pipe fitting (like a central heating radiator valve). The threaded collar is attached to the inlet manifold side of the pipe. I removed it and managed to work the pipe out and off. This gave me a lot more room to work.

The VSV is the valve that is half way back the engine, down on the right hand side. It's attached to the block via a bracket with a rubber mount. I decided to take the whole thing off and removed the 12mm bolt holding the bracket on. I put the bolt back again after removing the bracket as it seemed to be holding something else on too. I couldn't really see what. The valve is also attached via an electrical plug which has to be disconnected. I tried to trace the wire back, hoping to be able to take it out altogether but it disappears into the guts of the engine and I don't know where it comes out. I traced the vacuum pipes in both directions and tore them all off (no need to I suppose but I hate things that do nothing).

At the front end of the engine this process will lead you to the vacuum hose that attaches to the top of the throttle body. You'll find that, next to this one, their is another, capped off. I've ordered another cap from Toyota but he's unsude if we've ordered the right part, if it turns up and it fits I'll add the P/N here. In the meatime I cut the hose down to about 40mm long and screwed a fat selftapping screw into the end and cable tied it in place.

The only other part to come off is the EGR Vacuum Modulator. It's the valve, on the top of the back of the inlet manifold, that the EGR valve attaches to via a vacuum hose and seperate pipe. It's held in place by a clippy-clampy thing. I removed the whole clamp assembly. It also holds a wiring harness in place so I'm going to Dremel it to shape and refit it.

Right, back to these 12mm nuts holding the EGR on. The WD40 did it's work and I managed to run the lower of the two off. The one behind the vacuum pipe (you'll see what I mean) was still a problem. I went for it with a 12mm socket and it slipped out of my hand, dropped onto metal, and dissappeared into a parallel universe ("You are entering a zone, not only of time and space but of lost tools"). I eveuntually got a short 12mm, open ended, spanner on it and managed to run it off. DON'T DROP THE NUTS!

Fitting the EGR block off plates, with all this hardware out of the way, was dead easy. I didn't use a torque wrench (Inlet manifold side is around 13ft/lb. Plenum bolts are something like 10ft/lbs, thanks Lofty) but I've learned to be gentle after ripping the heads off of two or three bolts on my 14 year old Soop!

I dry fitted them and the one on the inlet seems to be fine. The one on the exhaust side is obviously leaking a bit as you can feel a fluttering draft around it. I removed both (cleaned up the mating faces, lots of bits of old gasket had been left. Note to self, pay more attention next time) and fitted them again with a pair of home made gaskets made from gasket paper from the local factors. They're both tight as a drum now.

[Lofty]

I didn't use a torque wrench (what's the setting?)
I believe that it is in the TRSM. Inlet manifold side is around 13ft/lb. Plenum bolts are something like 10ft/lbs.
I need one of those TB caps too.

[damo_mk3]

well came in very handy thanks (imoyes) maybe this should be put in the Technical guide

fitted mine on friday all good

thanks to superstar90 for sortting em out

damo

[imoyes]

well came in very handy thanks (imoyes) maybe this should be put in the Technical guide

fitted mine on friday all good

thanks to superstar90 for sortting em out

damo

Glad I could help damo. Watch this space for idiots guide to PCV removal. :)

[MKS]

Sorry to bring this thread up from the dead.. but does anyone have any pics of where the EGR block off plates fit ?? and what to remove..

I just dont know the names of everything as i lernt everything myself without any books or anything lol.. so to me the EGR valve or whatever is a thing thats by the thing no the thing lol :)

hehe

[MKS]

all sorted now lol. .was not really that hard i jsut followed the system around fom the plenum :)