View Full Version : Coolant Change
Ive decided to swallow my pride and ask a dumb ass question.........how do you do it!!!!
I know to drain the radiator and engiine block. Then do you fill the coolant tank up turn her over and keep topping up until it doesnt drain, or do you need to do the radiator as well?
Any help welcome cheers guys
Also when I start her in a morning there is a gurgling noise for a few seconds from the heater vents. I presume this is just the matrix filling up and is normal?
Also ............... :) :bigeyes: rocker cover - does the oil need to be drained before changing gasket or not? - im putting some valve treatment into my oil which will then need replacing so presume ideal time to do it?
Thanks Peeps
Nick@TC
22-09-04, 07:16 PM
Drain coolant from rad using the drain tap, block will drain aswell as it's the lowest point.
Close drain tap.
Start engine, and refill with coolant very very slowly into top of radiator, with the heaters on hot.
Can't recommend Toyota Forlife Red highly enough.
Don't need to drain oil to take off rocker covers, what's this valve treatment???
Drain coolant from rad using the drain tap, block will drain aswell as it's the lowest point.
Close drain tap.
Start engine, and refill with coolant very very slowly into top of radiator, with the heaters on hot.
Can't recommend Toyota Forlife Red highly enough.
Don't need to drain oil to take off rocker covers, what's this valve treatment???
i need to do this soon Nick how much water should be in before the engine can be started?
cheers
Hi Nick
Cheers - - yes i am using forlife - will all 5 litres go in?
so dont use coolantr tank at all - just through the radiator - and then presumably stop when it is full to the top and doesnt go down anymore?
Is the gurgling noise normal - do i need to flush the engine out first with normal water? - sorry 4 been dumb!
Stuff is Wynns Valve treatment i think its called. Do you reccommend any other. Syptoms are ticking from cold getting faster with acceleration and dissaperaing normally when warm. Engine sounds a little like a diesel at tickover when warm but sweet as a nut when you acclerate
Cheers Nick
Stuff is Wynns Valve treatment i think its called. Do you reccommend any other. Syptoms are ticking from cold getting faster with acceleration and dissaperaing normally when warm. Engine sounds a little like a diesel at tickover when warm but sweet as a nut when you acclerate
Cheers Nick
Better oil and valve shim's me think's :bigeyes:
darket69
22-09-04, 08:22 PM
ARRRRGGGGHHHHH
I think i am loosing the will to live ... must resist making comments on ford ownership .... must resist slitting wrists :banghead:
ARRRRGGGGHHHHH
????? whats up mate :duck: :duck:
Iv done it again and edited a post ..instead of replying .. please re edit GT :duck:
sorry gt .......doh
darket69
22-09-04, 08:40 PM
Dont worry guys im still almost sane :) and it wasnt really a dig at you mike :duck:
All read here :-
shims (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showthread.php?t=2752)
Sorry for the outburst :D
Dont worry guys im still almost sane :) and it wasnt really a dig at you mike :duck:
All read here :-
shims (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showthread.php?t=2752)
Sorry for the outburst :D
ta :)
suprastallard
23-09-04, 11:29 AM
i get that same noise of water passing through the matrix when i first start and when i acelerate?
i had a water pipe go replaced and toped up the system could i have a air blockage that y it makes the noise?
i get that same noise of water passing through the matrix when i first start and when i acelerate?
i had a water pipe go replaced and toped up the system could i have a air blockage that y it makes the noise?
gurgling behind dash is an air lock, i tried all sorts to get rid of it, burping etc,eventually found a tip about pulling the jiggle valve out of the stat, and enlarging the hole to five mm, took about five days to clear completely, :) trouble is i can hear all the other rattles now:sad2:
black 86 supra
25-09-04, 05:02 PM
I've got this noise again, only slightly and not all the time, varies each time you start the engine, its there when I rev and pul off in 1st, Im hoping after only 280miles of hg being done that its not my fear again and its just air, time to flush the system me thinks :banghead:
CWSupra
04-12-04, 05:42 PM
Drain coolant from rad using the drain tap, block will drain aswell as it's the lowest point.
Close drain tap.
Start engine, and refill with coolant very very slowly into top of radiator, with the heaters on hot.
Can't recommend Toyota Forlife Red highly enough.
Don't need to drain oil to take off rocker covers, what's this valve treatment???
Is this correct about not having to remove the drain tap on the engine block, only the one from the rad?
Owners manual says to remove both? Hope this can be clarified as I would rather avoid having to remove both if so!
Thanks,
Craig.
Tony Donovan
04-12-04, 06:21 PM
It's a good idea to take out the drain plug on the side of the block as well, if you can, Craig - lots of silt and crud collects at the lowest point: a good flush through will shift it and leave more volume for the coolant..!
CWSupra
04-12-04, 08:12 PM
Thanks for the help!
Now that you mention it, where abouts is the drain plug on the block, is it only visible from beneath?
Also, where should I flush it out from/to?
Thanks,
Craig.
Thanks for the help!
Now that you mention it, where abouts is the drain plug on the block, is it only visible from beneath?
Also, where should I flush it out from/to?
Thanks,
Craig.
best from underneath as its in behind the oil filter and under manifold
Tony Donovan
05-12-04, 03:14 AM
Thanks for the help!
Now that you mention it, where abouts is the drain plug on the block, is it only visible from beneath?
Also, where should I flush it out from/to?
Thanks,
Craig.
You'll probably find it best (but not easy!) to backflush by jamming a hose up tight to the drainplug hole and letting the jacket backfill; the top hose outlet is a good runoff when the hose is detached and the 'stat removed.
Some will disagree I'm sure, but I've found a caustic flushing agent like Radflush when you've refilled will complete the process: add it to the fresh water, come up to temperature and run for 10 - 15 minutes before letting the engine cool then draining again. It has the added advantage of acting as a surfactant in the jacket, thus eliminating the formation of interior surface bubbles. The 'how-to' of the final fill is covered in depth in other threads. (Have the heater controls at maximum when you carry out all coolant jobs.)
May seem like a long-winded process, but with a car as sensitive to cooling as the Supe, you can't be too careful!
As an aside regarding caustic flushing - I once forgot to drain it from an all-aluminium engine, and ran it in the system for three months in the summer before I discovered my mistake.. The coolant passages in neither the block nor the head suffered any damage at all (I checked! :) ).
Had coolant pipe burst yesterday, got everything need to get car back on the road but cant find block drain plug! Have taken out 2 bolts one 10 mm other 14mm with no luck. Is it the 17mm right at the back of the block? If so gonna need longer bar on me ratchet as its tight as hell. Quick reply would me most appreciated as i got to be in work tonight. Thanks. ps 1989 N/a
darket69
22-11-05, 01:13 PM
yes thats the one dude
PS please dont bump old threads like these .. all the info you need is in the manual in the bible section
And your correct its a bitch to remove as its covered in thread lock
Sorry bout that in a mad rush! Thanks for your help just cracked it!
darket69
22-11-05, 01:20 PM
Sorry bout that in a mad rush! Thanks for your help just cracked it!
:D
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