View Full Version : The Holy Bible Of Mk3s ---15-09-05 Update---Adjustable Cam gear Tip added
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How Many Mk3s Left in the UK?? (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=27978&postcount=32) by Sean NEW
Buying Guide by XTT
Part 1 (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11723&postcount=2)
Part 2 (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11724&postcount=3)
Part 3 (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11725&postcount=4)
Part 4 (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11727&postcount=5)
Part 5 (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11728&postcount=6)
WorkShop Manual (http://www.supras.org.nz/techinfo/TSRM/Default.htm) by Toyota
Owner's Manual (http://www.brandwood.net/supra/handbook/) by Toyota
Head Porting for the DIYer (http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm) by XTT
Nitrous Oxide For The DIYer (http://www.diy-nitrous.fsnet.co.uk/) by XTT
Which Oil To Use??? (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11840&postcount=17) by darket69
Head Rebuild Tips (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11841&postcount=18) by darket69
Guide To Doing The Ignition Timing (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11843&postcount=19) by Trevor
Adjustable cam gear tips (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=76502&postcount=38) by Bondango
W58 (Manual) Supra 3.0NA / 2.0TT / 2.0NA
R154 (Manual) Supra 3.0T / 2.5TT
A340 (Auto) All Models
Differential (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=30198&postcount=33) by XTT
Differential (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=60837&postcount=36) by RogerNE
Window Auto-Up Mod (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11883&postcount=23) by XTT
Earthing Fix (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11959&postcount=26) by Bondango
Headlight Height Opening Controller (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11960&postcount=27) by Bondango
Rear brake to foglight Diode Mod (PDF File) (http://www.imoc.co.uk/users/upload/Fog%20light%20mod.PDF) by Bondango
DIY Flamer Kit Mod (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=54011&postcount=35) by XTT---NEW---
Starter Motor Fix (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=60872&postcount=37) by RogerNE---NEW---
http://www.koetser.eurobell.co.uk/supra/ Heater control fix/guide By Tim_k ---NEW---
Spring/Shock Replacement (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11845&postcount=20) by darket69
Lock Stop Replacement (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11846&postcount=21) by Trevor
Suspension Upgrade (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11848&postcount=22) by Nodalmighty
Tems Sport & Stiff Modification (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11958&postcount=25) by Bondango & adi
Model Specific Guides
7M-GE - Engine Specification (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=12822&postcount=28) by XTT
Modifying An NA Supra (7M-GE) by XTT
Part 1 - Exhaust (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11732&postcount=7)
Part 2 - Intake (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11733&postcount=8)
Part 3 - Free Mods...Or Nearly Free (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11734&postcount=9)
Part 4 - Gauges (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11735&postcount=10)
Part 5 - Fuel Control Electronics (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11736&postcount=11)
Part 6 - Ignition (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11737&postcount=12)
Part 7 - Rotating mass weight-saving (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11738&postcount=13)
Part 8 - Head And Internals (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11739&postcount=14)
Part 9 - Suspension (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11740&postcount=15)
7M-GTE - Engine Specification (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=12823&postcount=29) by XTT
1JZ-GTE - Engine Specification (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=12825&postcount=31) by XTT
13.5V Fuel Pump Mod (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11957&postcount=24) by Bondango
1G-GTE - Engine Specification (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=12824&postcount=30) by XTT
1G-GTE General Technical Info - Wiring Diagrams - Links (http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showpost.php?p=11810&postcount=16) by gtwinman
Racing History Info
Toyota Supra Group A Turbo (http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/specifications/MA70GA/ma70ga.htm) by Bondango
The Mk3 Supra Buying Guide
Items that will prove useful during the inspeaction: flashlight, Phillips screwdriver, a ground cloth to lie on while peering at the underside of the car, something to clean your hands with and, if available, a friend with a relatively knowledge on cars.
Complete the diagnostic check of the Engine (specifically the EFI system - Electronic Fuel Injection System).
Complete the diagnostic check of the ABS system. Begin by disconnecting the actuator check connector, and then read the code flashed by the ABS dash warning light - somewhat similar to the check engine diagnostic above.
Tail light warning light - check to make sure all of the tail lights and guide lights work - if not, loss of ground or a knackered socket is the most likely problem.
Inspecting the dirty side: Start with the front end and lie down on the ground on your back (use a floor mat or the ground cloth to keep clean), stick your head under the front bumper and look up at the structure behind the bumper. Use the flashlight to help you see under here. You are looking for bent metal, evidence of paint over-spray in the wheel wells and coil springs, missing pieces, etc. All are evidence of serious accidents. While under there, have a look around for evidence of oil leaks, shock absorber leaks and bent suspension. Ask if the car has been wrecked. Many people will lie about this until you point out evidence of the damage.
Repeat the above for the rear end of the car. Check the shocks, CV joint boots, differential, exhaust system and the metal forward of the rear bumper. Look forward at the driveshaft and transmission, looking for leaks and bent pieces. Check the rear suspension for bent pieces. Check the floor pan and various panels for large dents and for rust.
Ask if the car is a write-off. Stay away from any that do. Write-offs are more expensive to insure and are worth way less than a normal cars. Many are bought at auctions/scrap yards and repaired by people who do a less than professional job. If you have any doubts about the car, go elsewhere.
Using the flashlight, peer through the wheels into the brake callipers (this will be difficult if the Supra has stock wheels!). Try to determine the condition of the brake pads. It is sometimes difficult to see just how thick the pads are. It helps to move the car a little to see around the spokes. Are the rotors warped? Replacements can be expensive. Ask when the brakes were last replaced and ask for proof or a test-drive to determine it yourself.
Inside the hatch area: Raise the wheel well cover and remove spare, and look for evidence of water/rust. With the wheel well cover open, are the plastic utility trays and covers still in place? Close the wheel well cover and inspect the interior body covers for damage. Remove the access panels at the taillight assemblies and antenna, and look inside for evidence of water or rust. The last thing you need is to rebuild your arches…..
While the hatch is open, check the hatch seal for wear, openings, and evidence of water intrusion (rust).
Interior: Check for signs of unusual wear. Supra interiors are pretty rugged. The fabric seats will fade if left in the sun. Look for wear on the driver's seat bolsters where your backside rubs as you get in the car. Check the pedal rubbers for wear. Do they look like the right amount of wear for the mileage on the speedo? Ask the seller if the speedo has been changed and ask for previous MOTs.
Ask the seller if he/she has the security code for the radio (if it is the stock radio). Try all controls and check all lights. Check general appearance. After you have seen a few Supras, you will know what a good one looks like. If you are not familiar with the Supra, inspect several to establish a baseline.
The targa top: Inspect the interior carefully and look for signs of water intrusion. Targas are, for the most part, know for leakage. If in doubt, ask the Owner to remove the targa and inspect the neoprene seals. Also, note if there is an original targa removal wrench and pouch.
Inspecting the body panels. Are they smooth and do the seams match well? Look down the sides of the car in bright light. Do you see any ripples, roughness or other signs of body repair? If possible, check the paint under fluorescent light. It will show sanding marks and other signs of body and paintwork. Check the doorsill areas and rocker panels for signs of rust. Look for little bubbles in the paint. If the car has metallic doorsill plates, ask if you can remove them to look for rust. You will need the Phillips screwdriver for this. How good is the paint? Do some of the painted panels look fresher than the others? If they do, the car will be two shades of the color after a few years of fading. If you find some discrepancies, ask again about accidents. Inspect the doorsills for over-spray; check the black rubber parts next to the paint for over-spray. All are signs of a repaint, which likely means an accident. Look inside (from the exterior) the taillight assemblies, the outer shell often becomes separated from the inner shell, resulting in moisture between the two shells.
Under the Bonnet: Check for general cleanliness, oil leaks, and missing parts and inspect the area around the radiator and headlights for signs of accident damage. Also look for leaking coolant. Ask if the timing belt has been changed. It is due at 60K mile intervals. Ask if the spark plug wires have been changed; many go bad at about 30K miles. Look to see if the injector cover is in place (the one that says Turbo on it) - this is one of the first cosmetic items to fail at the bolt corners.
Consider doing a compression check, especially if the engine is running unevenly. You can do it yourself if you have the tools and a compression gauge or you can pay a shop to do it for you. In fact, you can also pay a shop to go over the whole car and give you a report. The cost for this varies greatly; make sure you have an understanding with the shop about what will be done and what it will cost.
Consider doing a vacuum test. 18-21 psi vacuum at idle is normal. Pulsating or less vacuum is an indication of several things going bad. Check idle speed, it should be close to 650 rpm at idle (warm engine) - if not, the idle speed sensor may need to be reset or there are other "problems."
Disconnect the hoses that connect to the accordion hose, including the Power Steering Idle-Up hose (small) on the bottom of the accordion (about mid-length of the accordion), and then loosen the clamp where the accordion connects to the turbo. You will, most likely, have to remove the upper plastic/metal pipe that routes from the intercooler to the 3000 pipe (the one that says "3000" on it) in order to access the accordion hose. Pull the accordion from the turbo and reach inside the turbo inlet and grab the center of the compressor wheel (at the center shaft connection). Check for radial (side-to-side; up-and-down) and axial (back-and-forth) play. Allowable play is 0.13mm (.0051-inch) axial and 0.18mm (.0071 inch) radial; this is, approximately, half a thickness of a fingernail. Also, manually spin the compressor wheel and determine if it turns smoothly. When running the car, go to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and confirm that boost pressure on the boost gauge is 6.5 psi or so. If all above is OK, then it is likely the turbocharger is not faulty.
Pull the oil dipstick. Check the oil for visible contaminants. It should be clean but it will darken as the miles add up since the last change. If you see metallic particles sparkling in the oil, stop now and leave. Ask when the oil was last changed. Ask to see maintenance records, especially of oil changes. 3K intervals are great; up to 4.5K intervals are OK (per sticker in engine compartment), Longer intervals or no records, not so good. If they claim frequent oil changes but have no records, you will have to decide whether to believe them or not.
If the car has an automatic transmission, pull the dipstick and check the cleanliness of the oil. Smell the oil when the transmission is hot. If it smells at all burnt, walk away and find another. If you see sparkling metallic particles, walk away. Complete the diagnostic check of the auto transmission.
Check the fan belts for cracks and obvious wear. Grab the water pump pulley with both hands and rock it back and forth to see if there is excessive wear (unlikely on most Supras). Be careful; it might be hot. Inspect the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs for proper level and color of fluid. If it is very dark and dirty looking, plan on some $$s for repairs in the future and get the fluids changed as soon as you buy the car. Check the power steering fluid reservoir for level and leaks. Check the air conditioner compressor for leaks. Check for evidence that the radiator's overflow bottle has not overflowed (rust, etc. on body parts below the reservoir) - this may be a sign of a blown head gasket.
Have someone start the car while you watch the exhaust pipe. Look for smoke. In general, a white cloud indicates water in the cylinders from a leaking head gasket or cracked block. If it pumps out great clouds of smoke, thank the owner politely and leave.
Go back to the front and listen to the engine. Listen for knocks and any unusual sounds. If you are not familiar with the noises engines make, bring along a mechanically knowledgeable friend to help. Turn on the A/C and check to see that both electric fans behind the radiator come on. Listen to the sounds that start when the A/C compressor comes on. Loud knocking probably means replacement of the compressor. Squealing sounds generally mean the belt is too loose. Some Supra A/Cs whistle a little, and that is generally not a problem. Check to see if the A/C blows cold air. On a hot day, you should feel cold air at the vents within 30 seconds. If it takes much longer, there may be a refrigerant leak to fix and a recharge of R12/R134a.
Once the engine is warmed up, grab the throttle valve and rev the engine slowly up, listening for knocking sounds that come on at a certain rpm levels and fade away. Early signs of main bearing wear will show up here. Does the engine idle smoothly without shaking from side to side?
The test drive: Start with the windows closed and the radio off. This minimizes the wind noise and allows you to better hear the mechanical noises. Again, if you are not familiar with these sounds, bring along a friend that knows a thing or two.
First of all, once you start the engine and rev it a little bit with the heater on(max temperature), listen for any gurgling behind the dashboard. This could be either a head gasket(not walk, but RUN away) or a leak somewhere in the cooling system, either way it's bad news.
The Supra is a fairly quiet car (for most of its years, it was Toyota's flagship car). You will hear whirring sounds from the rear, which are usually tire noise. Listen for the sound of dry bearings grinding away. If it changes with road speed, but not with engine RPM as you change gears, it is probably the rear wheel bearings or the differential. Listen to the sounds of the transmission as you go through the gears. High-pitched whining noises in one or more gears are indicative of bad bearings in the transmission. Be sure you try out the reverse gear as well.
For an automatic transmission, the shifts should be ultra smooth. Place the shifter lever in "L-Range," the transmission should shift from 1st to 2nd and stay there. Place the shifter in "Drive," shifting from 1st through 4th should be smooth. Disengage the "O/D" switch; the transmission should not shift into 4th. Push in the"PWR" button; the transmission should stay in each gear for a longer period of time than when the "PWR" switch is in the "NORM" position.
For a standard transmission: Is the clutch smooth on engagement? Any slippage? Go up and down the gears several times. Any sound or feel of bad synchronizers? Is the acceleration about right (you will have to drive several to get a base-line for this comparison)?
At about 15 mph in 1st gear, get on and off the gas quickly several times. Do you feel or hear any slack in the driveline? Drive about 45 mph in 5th. Disengage the clutch, rev the engine about 2K above what it was doing and pop the clutch. If the engine immediately drops back to the original rpm area, the clutch is probably good. If it comes back slowly and the car sounds like it is, you have the first signs of clutch slippage. Be gentle--it's not your car yet and it is easy to cook the flywheel doing this!
Drive at 60, 65, 70 mph and whatever speeds you can safely do under the conditions. Supras are infamous for the 65 mph shimmy. Check for this. Does the car wander or follow the longitudinal grooves in the road? Does it feel controlled over bumps, or does it wallow like an old Ford Granada?
Try the brakes. Do they have a solid feel? Does the car stop straight? Do you feel pulsations in the brake pedal? On a deserted road or large parking lot, make some quick left and right turns. Does the car feel solid or does it wallow back and forth?
While you are driving in stop and go traffic, does the engine stutter, misfire, bog down after a shift? All are signs that the plug wires need replacing, or worse (bad sensors, etc.).
With the car stopped, set the handbrake. Does it feel solid? Gently try to move the car with the brake applied. Does it seem to hold?
Ask if the car has ever been on a 1/4-mile track. Ask if the Supra had ever had any performance modifications (they are often removed and stock items reinstalled prior to sale). Two observations here, if the answer is "yes" and "often," then this may have affected the total life of the Supra - you be the judge.
Summary: All in all, the Supra is a well-built, tough car with an excellent maintenance record. If the car has had good care and maintenance, it will give you good service. If you suspect the car has not had good care, pass on it and find another. If you have been following the forum for a while, you are aware of the few problems that Supras have. The above is not overkill for many people, especially if you are looking at high mileage cars. I'm sure there are some areas I've overlooked. If you are not mechanically inclined, bring along a knowledgeable to help out (if he/she really knows what he/she is talking about). After the purchase: After you have found and bought that perfect (for you) used Supra, and unless you got receipts from the previous owner(s) for recent maintenance, do the following:
Change the engine oil now and at 3k intervals. Castrol GTX is good, others prefer synthetics, either is OK, you decide. In theory, synthetics are better for the turbo since they are resistant to ash deposits forming when the turbo/engine is not run for a couple of minutes after a "hard run." Check and replace the air and fuel filters (fuel filter is above differential), if needed.
If the coolant has not been changed recently, change it and use a 50-50 mix of a good quality antifreeze and distilled water.
If the car has high mileage, consider changing the transmission and differential fluids. It would also be a good idea to change the brake and clutch fluids as well, especially if they are dark and dirty. Do any other maintenance per the owner's manual. If the timing belt has not been changed and is near a 60K interval, do it now. Clean and detail it (the previous owner probably didn't keep it as clean as you want your new baby to be), and then give it a coat of wax.
Then, enjoy the Supra experience. More smiles to the mile than any other car.
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
There are quite a few options here, and they depend on your budget and how much work you're willing to put in.
Off the Shelf:
For those of you who don't mind spending some money for quality, you can get a pre-built system such as Apex-i, Mongoose, HKS, Greddy, Blitz, RSR (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-exhausts.html) offers. 3" exhausts are fine if the backbox has a little bit of restriction. Cat-backs like the Blitz NuR Spec R will flow too much and might result in a loss of low end power.
You can also custom build your own exhaust system with a help of a specialist company like Silverline (http://www.silverlineracing.com/). Buy your choice of backbox. Here you need to make a choice. You could buy the cheapest high-flow muffler you can find.
If you want something that sounds better, you might try an A'PEXi N1 backbox.
You can get a 2.5" receiving backbox which will hook up easily to your catalytic convertor (cat). Or if you're getting rid of the cat, you can use the pre-cat flange. Or you can get a 2.75"-3" receiving backbox and figure out how you want to convert the stock 2.5" to whichever size you choose. The larger size will be better for top end torque, but you will probably lose some low end. If you plan on doing any internal engine work or getting 275+hp, you should probably go for the 3".
After you've chosen your backbox, get an exhaust shop to run you some corresponding size pipe from the cat or test pipe to the backbox.
Third option would be to get a cat-back exhaust system from a Turbo MK3. This wont give you the most hp, but you may get lucky and have a friend who is upgrading his or her Turbo's exhaust system and they will give you their old one.
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
K&N FIPK (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/)
Almost everyone has this filter, domestic and import owners alike. It flows very nice, looks good, is reusable, and gets rid of the airbox (a major airflow restriction).
Apex-I Super Intake (http://www.suprastore.com/apsuinkitsum.html)
Not too many people have tried this one. K&N is just so well known. Its very similar to the FIPK, but it has a extra filter area in the front of the filter, whereas the FIPK just has a chrome plate. This could be bad for performance as it reduces the area inside the filter, and creates turbulance. They are also reusable like the FIPK.
Blitz SUS Power (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-airfilter.html)
It is stainless steel mesh, so it gets my vote for coolest looking. It will not filter well. This filter is reusable.
HKS Super Mega Flow (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-airfilter.html)
this is a foam type filter. They have been known to fall apart (very bad). The general consensus is that it flows better than the FIPK, but filters horribly. People with SMF's can expect to find lots of grime in their intake tract. They are also not-reusable.
this is also a foam type filter. Unlike the HKS unit, it is cleanable. They dont have a listing for the MK3 N/A on their website, but one of them will fit the N/A. Most probably the one for the 2nd gen RX7 will fit. For Example the 2nd gen RX7 K&N filter fits also the 86.5-92 N/A's. This foam filter is extremely cheaply made. It looks like packing foam and glue, so it's not really recommended as the rest of the available filters are so much better.
K&N dropin (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/) -
this is meant just to replace the stock airfilter. It doesnt replace the stock airbox like the above do, but its about 1/4 the price. If you are on a tight budget, this is probably the way to go. You can remove the stock airbox and attach the filter directly to the AFM. Most people just cut the airbox so as to leave just enough to hold the airfilter in place.
Cold Air Mod
Get some kind of rubber or metal hose that will flex in 3" diameter. Any rubber house in your area should have 3" rubber hose. You can get metal flex hose from a home repair store. You will also need some locking ties to hold it in place.
Since N/A's are made exactly like the turbo's just without all the turbo equipment, we actually have two places to run a cold air hose into the air filter so you may as well run two hoses. This mod works best with the air box already removed (works good with the FIPK installed). You'll notice on the left side there is a little black or gray plastic panel with some wires coming from it. You can remove that panel and run a cold air hose in through there. I ran one hose from the lower grill and one from the upper grill. Removing the engine cover on the passenger side under the headlight will give you more room to work with.
You can also go a little further and isolate the AFM/air filter from the rest of the engine bay with sheet metal or something that will block off alot of heat. Wrapping or ceramic coating all the intake piping will help too.
The purpose here is to get rid of the stock intake resonator. This will increase air flow a little, to make the engine bay look better, and you may hear more air noises. The cheap way will be to just buy a section of 3" pipe from a muffler shop. Trim the first rubber intake hose so that the ribbed section is gone. You may have to trim a little more off to get the pipe to fit inside it. Before cutting the smooth section, try to stretch the rubber hose and then putting the pipe in. Make sure the AFM will also fit inside the rubber hose. WD40, or some kind of lubricant may also come in handy here. After you get that to fit, shove the metal pipe into other small curved section of rubber hose that fits on the throttle body. Getting new hose clamps will make it look so much better.
As a variant, you can get a muffler shop to mandrel-bend the 3" pipe so it curves instead of using the end rubber hose. If you do that, you will need to get a small section of rubber hose to connect the throttle body to the pipe. This will flow a little better, but someone who can do mandrel bending is fairly hard to find.
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
Free mods (or nearly free) :D
The AFM is set for the factory specs. After you've done intake and exhaust mods, you may or may not need more fuel.
For the AFM-pry the little black plastic cover off. You'll see a toothed wheel with a little piece of bent metal in one tooth-MARK THIS TOOTH WITH A SCRIBE OR SOMETHING ELSE PERMANENT! Then pull the little metal piece out out rotate the wheel counterclockwise 3-5 teeth. What this does is relax the tension on the flapper door so that the door will open "easier and quicker" but it will not really richen the mixture very much. You have to mark the "stock" position so that you will have a reference or if you ever need to put it back stock.Warning: Running with too much fuel will actually make you slower :bigeyes:
Factory setting is 10btdc. If you run high octane gas, 91-93 octane, you can increase your timing to 14-16btdc. To do this, short the T and E1 in the diagnostic box (just like you're checking engine codes). Using a timing light, check your timing. It should be around 10 degrees. Now, loosen the screw on the distributor that allows it to rotate. While watching the timing, rotate the distributor until the timing reaches what you want. Then tighten the distributor back down. Its not recommended that you go over 14 degrees. The stock N/A computer is very slow to respond to knock and increasing your timing that much can cause damage if you do not have an alternate means to pick up inaudible knock.
Charcoal canister removal
The charcoal canister is the black cylinder that sits on the passenger side in the back of the engine bay. It filters excess gas pressure so that it can be vented to atmosphere safely. You can leave the line unplugged and very little gas fumes will come out. Or, if you are worried about fumes, run some more rubber line from there to a hole in the frame rail straight down from where the canister used to be. Its covered with a plastic cap. Remove the charcoal canister. Plug up the vacuum line that goes to the AFM bracket to the thermostat housing bracket to the throttle body. You might as well remove all those lines and plug it up as close to the throttle body as you can. This wont really do much except give you a little more space to put stuff (its a decent location for a PCV catch can).
this isnt much of a hp mod, its more of preventive maintenance. Normally, excess crankcase pressure is vented through the PCV "system" into your throttle body. This is mostly oil vapor which will coat your TB and intake manifold. Basically find a catch can like Jegs or a really slick unit like GReddy's. Run the hoses that go from each of the cam covers into the single line into the TB to your catch can. Make sure you plug up the TB hole. You dont want any air leaks.
Once disabled it should stop dumping exhaust gasses into the intake. It's easy to disable, just pull the vacuum lines off it. The best way to do it however is to completely remove the system. It's pretty hard to do without removing the head so you might want to wait until you have the head off for some other purpose. You'll just need to remove everything connected to the EGR and put a block off plate on the back of the head and another plate on the intake plenum. You can have the block-off plates made easily.
Short shift mod
-Remove the black dash center cover around the stereo ect.
-Remove 4 screws to remove the metal-covered rubber boot at the base of the stick.
-Pull the rubber boot off.
-There is a ring holding it onto the neck, pull hard, it comes off.
You don't have to remove the ring.
-Remove the next wide rubber cover over the base.
-Lift the small center rubber cap at the base of the stick.
-Remove 4 screws at the base of the stick.
-Remove the stick from the socket.
Now we'll break the stick apart.
-Take two vise grips. Make them extra tight.
-Place one at the lower silver metal shaft.
-Place the other on the black stick.
-Twist back n forth with strong force.
-You have to break a strong rubber filling inbetween the two shafts.
-It's a springy feel on most sticks.
On some cars, the rubber is very solid, a torch can melt it soft for the removal.
After you snap the rubber, remove the upper shaft
-Reinstall the stick, plates, and all boots. You'll need shift knob similar to a MOMO which does not use threads, it uses 3 set screws. The rubber cap needs to be inside the knob. Just set the thread collor, the knob, tighten the set screws, screw on the collar and voila! Set the leather bag,it'll have alot of folds in it now.
The height is very similar to a MkIV. The throw feels similar, with a little more notch feel. The rubber core of the long stick had dampened the notches and vibration.
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
The brand isn't as important, just remember you get what you pay for. GReddy (http://www.srbpower.com/_apps/search/displayproduct.php?page=/greddy/60mmwarningmeter), Apex-i (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/gauges.html), HKS (http://www.j-w-racing.co.uk/acatalog/HKS_Gauges.html), and Blitz (http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/2003/what.asp?page=RESULTS&make=GAUGES) gauges are considered to be the pick of the bunch, but there are other good ones out there.
A/F (Air Fuel)
one of the most common gauges out there. Most of them just read off your stock O2 sensor which is NOT accurate, all narrowband O2's are inaccurate. Examples of this type of gauge is Autometer, Cyberdyne, K&N, etc. GReddy makes a very accurate narrowband gauge, however it needs to be professionally calibrated to ensure accuracy. You can pretty much be sure if the gauge isn't over $300 then it's not wideband. FJO and AEM both make good wideband gauges.
this is actually a handy gauge to have on a normally aspirated car. Knowing engine vacuum will tell you how healthy the motor is, and if there's a problem you can sometimes determine it by the amount of vacuum. You can get away with a really cheap one if you want.
EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature)
not as useful as it is in a turbo car. It is nice to know but not vital.
not really that useful.
both are moderately useful for knowing the health of your motor. Stock oil pressure gauge is inaccurate and very slow to react.
very useful since the stock gauge is horribly inaccurate.
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
Fuel Control Electronics
If you're serious about getting maximum performance out of your N/A you will need some sort of fuel control device along with a few gauges.
GReddy e-Manage (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-ecu.html)
the king of all piggy-back style electronics. It will modify your fuel delivery via AFM and via direct control over injector duty cycle. It can also modify timing, data log, etc. You'll need either a laptop or a GReddy e-01 to control it. The e-01 will also datalog extra information so I'd recommend getting one. One of the best things about the e-Manage is all of it's maps are 16x16, that means you can control fuel and timing at different RPM's and vacuum points. All the other piggybacks tune only wide open throttle and low throttle.
A'PEXi S-AFC (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-electronics-fuel.htm)
mid-grade AFM based fuel modifier. Has a few bells and whistles, looks flashy.
HKS S-AFR (http://www.supras.nl/suprasport/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=43_4_7&products_id=75&osCsid=46876682b39ec773f331cbd45d587162)
cheapest AFM based fuel modifier on the market. Very simple to use and effective. No bells and whistles at all, just a good solid unit.
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
While the turbo's ignition system is pretty decent, the n/a's can use some improvement once you've done all the bolt-ons. Checking for increase in spark it was VERY noticeably stronger with the HKS unit but there was no extra power to be had. There are many choices here since its pretty much all universal. All of them except the HKS system require a tach adapter and a extra high performance coil.
HKS Twin Power (http://www.suprastore.com/hkstwinpowfo.html) - While this one is initially the most expensive, you wont need to buy more stuff to make it properly work with the Supra. It taps two wires off the coil and then has a ground wire. Very easy to connect and you can unplug it if it were to ever malfunction.
Crane (http://www.cranecams.com) - Crane has a few different models. Pretty much any of their Fireball HI-6 series are good, depending on what features you want. Surf their page for more info. Once you install this unit, if it malfunctions your car won't run.
MSD (http://www.chrisperfect.com/engine_msd_ignition.html) - MSD has a few different models you can use. Pretty much any of the 6 series are good, depending on what features you want. Surf their page for more info. Once you install this unit, if it malfunctions your car won't run.
Accel (http://www.mrgasket.com) - Accel makes a pretty decent coil you may consider if you get one of the other ignition control units that require one.
Crane (http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=3&prt=72) makes a few different sized wire sets. Their wires are black.
Magnecor (http://fensport.co.uk/partsfiles/ma70tuning.htm) makes a set 7, 8, 8.5 or 10mm wires (black, blue, red and red respectively). I have the KV85's (8.5mm) and highly recommend them.
MSD (http://www.supras.nl/suprasport/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=600&osCsid=5ae13be86ff75a4a2e49a74068b82d5d) makes a set of 8.5mm wires. Their wires are red. Some people complain about the quality of these wires, some people love them.
NGK (http://www.alamomotorsports.com/ngk_wires.htm) makes a set of 8mm wires (could be wrong about the size). Their wires are blue.
The general consensus is that the stock ND (nippodenso) plugs are good. NGK's are decent also, if you can't find either you can try Autolites which seems to work pretty well. Get copper plugs for more spark, platinum for more life, iridium if you've got money burning a hole in your pocket. Do NOT get any Bosch plugs.
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
Rotating mass weight saving
Eliminating rotating mass is good for torque.
Find a driveshaft company in your area. Just getting rid of the center support bearing is 5-10lbs. Stock weighs ~34lbs, one piece steel ones geneally weigh ~22lbs, An aluminum weighs ~11lbs. Sometimes you can find various people selling them on the net, you just have to search around.
Lightweight rims are a big help as the stock rims weigh a lot. The 3rd gen RX7 has lightweight rims on it that will fit on the Supra and can also fit a wider tire for more traction. Have a look in Ebay for RX7 Mk3 Wheels (http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll?MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&krd=1&ht=1&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.co.uk%2Fws%2F&krd=1&query=rx7+wheels&ebaytag1code=3&shortcut=2&currdisp=1&maxRecordsReturned=300&maxRecordsPerPage=50&SortProperty=MetaEndSort)
this is probably the hardest mod to install in the weight saving section as you need to drop the tranny to do this. If you are doing this mod, you may as well replace your clutch if you havent in a while.
Unorthodox Racing (http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/) makes a lightweight steel flywheel for the Supra.
Fidanza (http://www.aluminumflywheels.com/) makes a really nice 10lbs aluminum flywheel with replaceable clutch area.
HKS (http://www.hksusa.com/) used to make a lightweight steel flywheel for the Supra. Maybe you can get lucky and find one.
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
Head And Internals
Adjustable Cam Gears
you can get a few hp out of ACG's. You will need a dyno to tune them correctly. You can use gears from a 7mgte or 7mge.
HKS (http://www.hksusa.com/) made a ACG for the 7m series. It was discontinued though.
AEM (http://www.titanmotorsports.com/aemcamgear7m.html) makes an ACG that works well, available in three colors. Some people have had slipping problems with them at high revs but supposedly AEM has changed their design.
TRD (http://www.trdusa.com/) (Toyota Racing Development) also makes ACG's for the Supra.
Unorthodox (http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/) makes a decent looking set available in 3 colors.
I don't know of any pre-made cams for the 7mge. You can use 7mgte cams but they won't be designed for normally aspirated use. Various Companies will custom grind a cam to your specs. Some will even recommend a particular cam grind.
Internal Engine mods
These are general internal engine mods, I.E. they work for any car.
Porting and Polishing
Increasing flow increases efficiency.
Pretty much any port and polishing shop can work on the AFM, throttle body, intake manifold and exhaust manifold. You may want to take your cylinder head to a reputable shop in your area.
There are a few ways to do this. Anyway you do it, you'll have to take the cylinder head off, so you may as well put a MHG (metal head gasket) in.
Mill the block to max spec, try to take a minimal amount off the head so you don't change the combustion chamber shape. To install a MHG you'll have to mill both to make them flat and smooth.
Get compression increasing pistons. This is probably a better way to go, albeit a little bit harder to install.
MHG(Metal Head Gasket
With more power, you will put more strain on your motor. HG's are a known weak point on the Supra. Even N/A's have this problem. If you can tune your car very well or aren't running increased compression you can probably run the OE HG with ARP head bolts and never have any problems
GReddy (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-engine.html) makes a 83mm (stock) and a 85mm bore the following thicknesses : 1.0mm, 1.5mm and 2.0mm
HKS (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-engine.html) make a 86mm bore in the following thicknesses : 1.0mm, 1.2mm (stock), 2.0mm and 3.0mm
The Guide To Modifying an NA(7M-GE) Supra
Besides helping your launch, an upgraded suspension will give you lots of fun.
They can be expensive, but for Track Days and Road Racing there is no alternative. You can use coilovers from a JZA70, MA70 or MA71 chassis.
Cusco (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-suspension.html) makes a few different sets.They are a reputable company, so it's a safe bet
HKS (http://fensport.co.uk/parts.htm) makes a set. 25-way adjustable, both rebound and compression. Corner height adjustable.
Tein (http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=338&SearchYN=N) makes a few different sets. The Flex are 25 way strut rebound and compression adjustable, corner height and spring pre-load adjustable. The Flex coilovers are meant to be used on daily driven cars, they are soft enough for daily driving but handle like coilovers. Tein RA and HA are strut adjustable and corner height adjustable but are meant for racing only, they're too stiff for daily driving.
There are two basic types, progressive rate and linear rate.
ST (Suspension Techniques) (http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=338&SearchYN=N) makes a linear rate spring. They will work great for about 2-3 years before the rears start to sag (recent design change may have fixed that).
Tokico (http://www.jscspeed.com/mk3/suspension.htm) makes a linear rate spring. They recently changed their design and now the fronts will sit a good 1" lower than the rear causing excessive scraping and general annoyance at the un-levelness of the car. Spring spacers will solve this.
Eibach (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-suspension.html) makes a progressive rate spring. Very choppy/bouncy feeling unless you have a really serious strut. These springs may prematurely ruin a weak strut.
Fensport (http://www.fensport.co.uk/partsfiles/ma70chassis.htm) makes a progressive rate spring.
Intrax (http://intrax.drivewire.com/IntraxCatalog/Toyota/Supra/Suspension/Lowering-Springs.html) makes a progressive rate spring.
GReddy (http://www.suprastore.com/braksus.html) makes a progressive rate spring.
If you have TEMS and want to keep them, you'll need to get TEMS replacement struts (i.e. Tokico Illumina II). Otherwise enjoy the money saving and get non-TEMS.
Tokico (http://www.jscspeed.com/mk3/suspension/tokico_struts.htm) makes TEMS (Illumina II) and regular (HP) struts. In my opinion they are the best struts you can get for the price.
KYB (http://www.buypartsby.co.uk) makes non-TEMS struts.
Koni (http://fensport.co.uk/partsfiles/ma70chassis.htm) makes a manually adjustable strut. Pretty beefy and a good alternative to TEMS.
Strut Braces/Anti-Sway bars
This is probably the most enjoyable suspension item. Installation of a good set of sway bars and strut braces will keep the car from leaning so much in turns making weight transfer faster and allowing you to corner quicker.
Cusco (http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/supra-suspension.html) makes a set which have the same specs as the ST's except for metal content which is unpublished. They sell for about 2-3 times as much as the ST's.
Greddy (http://www.suprastore.com/gredfronstru.html) makes a set.
ST Front only(STQ-50215) (http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=29&s=9&p=2706&searchtype=ecat&page=3&CurrentFieldNumber=0#parts), Front and Rear (http://www.suprastore.com/sustecfronan.html) makes the most commonly used sway bar.
Whiteline (http://www.whiteline.com.au/) makes the biggest sway bars for the MA70. I have no first hand knowledge of them.
Upper Pillowball Mounts
HKS (http://www.jscspeed.com/mk3/suspension/hks_mounts.htm) makes a set of purple anodized front and rear, TEMS compatible with some customization.
1G-GTE General Technical Info - Wiring Diagrams - Links
General Technical and Maintenance/replacement information
Spark Plugs (require 17mm socket to remove):
ND (NipponDenso) - PQ20R-P8
NGK - BCPR6EP-N-8
Toyota - 15801-44011
Ryco - Z418 (same as ST-185 3S-GTE, 7M-GE, Lexus LS200)
Valvoline - V022 (same as V6 Camry)
Denso (?) 23250-70040 - yellow top, top feed (no barb) ("7F19" on other side from part number)
Toyota (Denso) Coil w/Ignitor 19070-70150 (Denso 101311-4901) EW
which consists of:
Ignitor Assy - Toyota 89620-14420 (Denso 131300-0951) 095
Coil = Toyota 90919-02146 (ND 029700-5551) 12V
Nippondenso 22250-70170 (197100-3320)
Toyota 3568 79035 (same as GX81)
Bosch - 4PK 1170
Toyota - 99364-51170
Regulator built in
12 V - 1600211-2820
Denso "6G17" (stamped)
Toyota - 90105-10042 (don't reuse)
Typical Engine Donor models:
1G-Gxx used in - GZ20 1998 Soarer; MZ11 Soarer; GA70 Supra
Auto - A340e (4speed ECT)
Asin-Warner (is a BW box made under license)
Model: 30 40LE
Part 35000 - 24161
Man - W58 (5sp Supra alloy)
model: CT12 (Toyota)
turbine inlet = 25mm
turbine exhaust outlet = 42mm
compressor inlet = 31mm
compressor outlet (to intake manifold) = 29mm
1G Engine Generation identifiers:
Method 1 (ECU/Inj plugs)
gen 1: Yellow ECU plugs and Yellow injectors. 0.50bar / 7psi.
gen 2: Yellow ECU plugs and pale Green injectors. 0.62bar / 9psi
gen 3: Grey ECU plugs and pale Green injectors. 0.75bar / 11psi
1G-GT Toyota (Denso) 89661-14052 (175000-1140 12V) (sticker: ZV)
connectors: 10pin, 18pin, 24pin
(Electronic Transmission Control)
1G-GTEU Toyota (Aisin) 89530-24270 (ink stamp: 7F26 - serial number or ROM version?)
Power assist steering-box (note: not Rack-and-Pinion):
MX32 to 62 Cressida
PDFs of articles and wiring diagrams
Listing of pin-outs on a 1G-GTE ECU module (http://members.optushome.com.au/mkhala/red_celica/1G-GTE_info/1g_gte_ecu_pinout.pdf) (PDF, 19 kB). Suggest you post question to the Toymods forum to establish which version (1-3) it is.
Wiring diagrams and connector identifiation (http://members.optushome.com.au/mkhala/red_celica/1G-GTE_info/1g_gte_ecu_wiring.pdf) showing how ECU connects to it's sensors and what it sends/connects to the main loom in the donor vehicle (PDF, 430 kB).
Notes (http://members.optushome.com.au/mkhala/red_celica/1G-GTE_info/1g_ecu_connectors.pdf) from unknown auto-sparkie who's mapped the ECU pin-outs of a 1G-GTE (PDF, 266 kB).
NOTES ON 1G-GE & GZE INSTALLATION (http://www.toymods.org.au/Darren/build_notes.htm)
WHAT OIL ..TYPE..SYNTHETIC...NON SYNTHETIC ?????
Right lets start with a few Basics of a cars lube system.
A common misconception is that oil pressure is created bt the oil pump.. this is partly true however the actual pressure is regulated by the condition of your big ends and main crank bearings.
The one very important bit of advice i can give is stick with the standard spec oil .. in the case of most supras this will be a good quality 10w-30 or a 10w40 for high milage engines or hard tuned supras (because of the increased heat and fuel dilution).
But what about the latest greatest 0w-30's and 5w-40 etc i hear some of you say .. well dont use it ..PERIOD..its far too thin so you wont be filling the gap between bearing surfaces and ends up basically "washing" the bearing..you might think that because its a thin oil youll be getting better lubing but you wont ..the tolerances are to large in a supra for such a thin oil hense youll end up shortening the life of your engine and in cases of very high milage engines you'll trash the bigends within a few thousand miles because the oil pressure will have droped out of spec so much due to the oil being far to thin .
Ok what about Mr cheapo 20-50 ? well this has kind of a reverse effect from cold the oil is VERY thick and oil pressure will be greatly increased but only because its not flowing anyware fast and again youll end up with major lube problems as the oil isn't getting to all the bits its supposed to. stear clear unless you own a ford with a pinto engine :P
Synthetic or non synthetic ,... synthetics generally have better lube properties and tend to resist heat and viscosity breakdown far better than conventional oils they also dont tend to absorb moisture as conventional oils do (leading to emulsification) however even in conventional oils heat and viscosity breakdown only happen at very high temperatures so a fully synthetic oil isnt really needed in a stock engine .. the other thing to note is that synthetics dont absorb contaminants as well as semi's and conventional oils so regular changing is a must or youll end up with a sludgy shagged engine ..the same is true for semis and conventional oils but they dont degrade quite as fast if oil changing is neglected.
So the rules of thumb are :-
Stick with the specified Oil or go a grade higher for high milage and tuned engines
If using a synthetic change it a regular intervals
Dont Skimp on oil changes ..do the filter at the same time ..they cost sod all and try to always fit the oem toyota one (never have trusted pattern filters)
Dont use and overly spec'd oil .. they contain far to many additives that will harm the engine.
Dont flush an engine unless it really needs it regular oil changes will keep it clean !
Head Rebuild tips
Clean the head completly.. so get some gunk and soak it for ages and pressure wash it all off .. externally clean with an acid etch cleaner this will leave the block looking like new and remember to wash all the acid off or it will slowly pit the head. Blow all the water away with an air line.
Also remove any deposites of carbon etc from the valve chambers with a piece of aluminium.
Take the cams out (take all the buckets and shimms out and put them into marked containers so you dont get them mixed up )and take it down to a local engineering firm and get it checked for warpage .. they will advise you whether it needs skimming or not .. do it regardless of a bhg or not ! pay £25-£50
Check all the valves for a good seal .. put the block on its side and fill all the ports (dependant on which side inlet/exhaust) and if any leaks are found mark the valve with some tippex or permanent marker.
Removal of valves .. youll need a good valve spring compressor and the rest is easy just compress the valve and remove the two locating collets that hold the valve spring down.. replacing them is a bit of a fiddle but once you have done a few youll get the hang of it.. finish off by tapping each valve spring with a hammer and bar t make sure all the collets have located. the same applys to the valve springs etc as the buckets and shimms.. put them all in numbered pots so you dont get them mixed up.
Change the valve stem seals (do regardless of condition) .Beg /borrow/steal a Valve compressor take the valves one at a time and replace the seals/re-grind the leaking ones
To replace a seal get a pair of long nose pliers and just pull them off .. put the new one on by hand and press it home firmly with a socket and extension bar that just fits over the seal (it should click home) and make sure you dont displace the spring on the top.
Re-grind leaking valves. this ones nice and simple .. buy a valve grinding kit from halfords .. this will come with a pole and suckers and some grinding past. Dont bother with the course past as the fine past will be enough.
Start by cleaning the valve and seat to remove ANY carbon deposites.now stick the pole and sucker on the valve ..smear a small amount on the valve seat and the lip of the valve and push the two together and rotate the pole between your hands in a too-and-fro motion occasionally lifting the valve to spread the past .... after a few minuts remove the valve and clean the valve seat .. if its a dull shade all the way round the seat is now re-ground if there are shiney patches keep going. Finish off by removing ALL traces of grinding compound from both the valve and the seat .. if you are unsure flush the head with parafin and blow it all out with an airline because even a small amount will damage the engine.
Re-shimm. this is mostly covered in the tsrm but i will collect the data and post a guide soon
Guide to doing the Ignition timing
Tippex the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley.
Tippex both the 15 and 10 BTDC marks on the block.
Connect the timing light and trigger off no 6 ( rear of block) ignition lead.
Use a paper clip to short E1 and TE1 on the diagnostic socket.
Start engine And drive till the temp guage is at the halfway mark and check idle speed is at 700 rpm (7M-GE) or 650 (7M-GTE,1G-GTE)
.. if not adjust.
Check that pulley mark lines up with 10 BTDC mark and also make sure that the mark remains stable if it doesnt inspect the leads plugs and dizzy/rotor arm if applicable. If not adjust cam
position sensor (7M-GTE) or the distributor (7M-GE,1G-GTE)
tighten the clamp on the distributor/cam position sensor
Recheck the timing to ensure you havent disturbed it
Remove paper clip from diagnostic socket and check that the ECU advances the timing to greaater than 12 degrees BTDC mark(7M-GTE,1G-GTE) or the 9-10 degrees mark (7M-GE).
Have celebratory beer
Step 10 not advisable if then taking vehicle for a test run (added by nick)
jack up the car and support with axel stands and remove the wheels
Start by loosening the bottom (19mm) nut and bolt on the shock and top 3 nuts on the turret mount (14mm or 12mm on the rears) and unclip the front ABS wires from the tabs on the shocks
If doing the fronts Remove the top wishbone mounting bolt (no need on the rear).. youll need to clean the threads first and the front drivers side can be a little bit of a pain as the washer bottle can get in the way
Now you should be able to push the entire lower wishbone/hub downwards but if its to hard get someone to stand on it .. the strut and spring should now be free with a little maniputation.
now you can dissasemble the strut free of the car and reassemble it.
Replacement do the strut assembly is done by bolting the 3 turret mounts first and offering the hub up to the bottom mount .. then just follow the guide in reverse.. however sometimes you might need to knock the locating bush on the lower shock mount out a little to gain clearence
Lock Stop Replacement
Nasty grating, graunching noise when car is moving slowly with steering on full lock.
Park car about a metre out from the kerb.
Turn steering to full lock.
Slowly drive up kerb and reverse back down again.
Repeat with other side of car.
If you hear a nasty grating graunching noise as the wheel mounts the kerb, you need a new nylon cover for the head of the steering endstop bolt on that side.
Part no: Y45619-14020 Cover Steering Stopper - £3 each from Toyota
Just tap it onto the end of the endstop bolt and liberally grease both it and the striker plate. Problem solved.
For road use forget big drops, coil overs, harsh springs and silly dampers. Get yourself a nice cheap set of KYB (£30 a corner) gas shocks, stock (or Fensport 20% uprated 30mm drop and consider this the max and they are cheaper) springs and buy yourself a suspension techniques anti roll bar kit (others also available) and a set of upper and lower poly bushes for the front wishbones (only avail from Fensport). You can now ride the bumpy stuff (i.e 90% of British road surfaces, speed bumps etc) in total comfort but corner like Automan.
Auto-Up Window Switch Mod
If the small tab on your drivers window switch has broken off or if you would simply like to touch the button and have the window go up as well as down automatically just follow this simple 15 minute modification.
Remove the two screw hole covers with your fingernail (or very carefully with a small screwdriver)
Gently pry the speaker grille off with a screwdriver
Remove the four screws holding the interior door handle/window switch housing.
Disconnect the cable from the back of the switch
Remove the trim plate from the front of the switch
Remove the two screws holding the switch module to the door handle
Cut off the small tab that sticks out behind the up side of the driver's window switch. Also small sidecutter normally used for electronics will work.
Reverse procedure to re-install
13.5V Fuel Pump Modification
The fuel pump has a dedicated fuel pump relay to switch the pump from 9.5V to 13.5V when “on boost”. Having recorded the Fp signal from the diagnostic connector I found that the voltage to the pump would actually drop momentarily before reaching 13.5V, just at the point where you stamp on the throttle! Not good....!
You need to bypass the fuel pump relay. ..
by removing the relay and bridging the connector. I dont know the correct pin sockets to bridge yet cause i aint done it on the Sup
The end result is no hesitation on boost and a guarantee that the fuel pump is supplying the maximum amount of fuel...just when u need it!
added by adi:
you can short the fule pump in the diagnostic block, Fp and TE1 from memory (to be confirmed) BUT be aware that this makes the fuel pump fun regardless of engine shutoff... so in an accident your fuel pump just carries on :D
by Bondango & adi
The current TEMS switch is a simple on-off device with three wires- 12 volts in, out to the TEMS ECU, and ground. Pushing one button closes a contact and sends 12 volts to the TEMS ECU for sport, pushing the other opens the contact and the TEMS is normal. So remove the switch and hardwire so it gets a permanent 12v and the TEMS will be set in Sport mode at all times
The way to get the TEMS in firm is to jumper the diagnostic block to the TEMS ecu so that it has the 'firm' setting all the time (not just the 'sport' setting). This is the same setting that it uses momentarily when accelerating hard, cornering, braking etc. It's also used for diagnosing TEMS faults.
Taken from SOGI...
"Access Diagnostic Block and Wires
It's in the engine bay, next to the fuse block and battery.
Locate Ts=Violet, E1=Brown wires.
Plug wires into top or splice leads into bottom of block. (Tap into, do not remove stock wiring.)
Feed your wires into the cabin (I cut hole under clutch pedal).
Use a easy access off/on pushbutton.
Place the Ts and E1 leads onto the two terminals.
Push button on:
If TEMS -NORMAL- is on, will have steering wheel feedback by the blinking TEMS indicators.
If TEMS -SPORT- is on, will have FIRM locked in!
Push button off:
TEMS has normal control, with -NORMAL- and -SPORT- control. "
I intercepted the wire at the ECU to avoid running wires into the cabin, and fitted a switch next to the auto shift.
Because of the age of most mkiii's the aerthing system gets bad. A simple bad earth can cause all sorts off problems from bad ruuning, poor acceleration to cars refusing to start.
A re-earth kit can be found on plenty of sites on the net. these are called "Ground kits" and come in car specific and Uiversal applications. they basically runn new ground wires from a battery Clamp to various earth point on the engine and body restoring the earting system to new.
Headlight Opening Height Controller
Lets u set the amount the head light opens.
Link To Online Vendor (http://www.shopresponse.com/popup_headlight_controllers.html)
7M-GE Engine Specification
7M-GTE Engine Specification
1G-GTE Engine Specification
1JZ-GTE Engine Specification
In order to find out the differential ratio and/or the type of your Rear Differential you'll have to check the chassis ID plate. On the bottom of the plate, there is a code(NOT the VIN number),
here's the table to help you find out to find out your diff ratio :bigeyes:
Nevermind the highlighted lines of the tables btw, there are several different diffs fitted on the Mk3s.
12-06-05, 07:33 AM
I'm planning to change my Differential to reduce the gear ratios on my N/A . . . . having done some research I believe all the following info is correct, and would be useful to others. So could it be added to the Diff section in the Bible?
Regardless of whether you have a W58 or R154 gearbox, or an Automatic Transmission, the Differentials used on Mk3 Supras are externally all the same, so they can easily be swapped to change the car's effective gearing. (Bear in mind the speedometer will then read incorrectly, but using the speedo drive cog from the gearbox on the car the diff came from should make it read correctly)
Although there may be some variation (so refer to the Reference Plate to be sure) these are the normal Differential Ratios used:
4.56:1 - 2.0 Twin Turbos
4.30:1 - 3.0 N/A
4.10:1 - 2.5 Twin Turbos
3.90:1 - 3.0 Turbos (87-88)
3.73:1 - 3.0 Turbos (88-92)
Most UK cars have Limited Slip Diffs, but check the Reference Plate to be sure.
P.S. Is it also worth putting these gearbox ratios somewhere in the Bible too?
R154 Ratios . . . W58 Ratios
1st 3.30:1 . . . . 1st 3.285:1
2nd 1.95:1 . . . . 2nd 1.894:1
3rd 1.34:1 . . . . 3rd 1.275:1
4th 1.00:1 . . . . 4th 1.000:1
5th 0.75:1 . . . . 5th 0.783:1
12-06-05, 02:29 PM
A common problem on Supras seems to be the Starter Solenoid not operating properly. The symptoms are a clicking noise when you turn the key, but no Starter Motor turning. Although this MAY be due to the Starter Motor/Solenoid needing an overhaul, poor design of the power feed to the Solenoid seems to cause problems - this modification is much easier than removing the Starter and is worthwhile doing anyway.
The lead to the solenoid performs 3 functions: It powers the Solenoid which pulls the starter gear teeth to mesh with the flywheel; It sends a small current through the Starter Motor so it turns slowly to assist meshing the gear teeth; Finally the Solenoid closes a big switch to allow full power to be applied to the Starter Motor (it draws about 200 Amps).
There are a number of design flaws with the feed to the Solenoid. Firstly, the wire is too thin for the amount of current drawn (so it will get hot and gradually corrode with age, causing its resistance to increase over the years). Secondly, unlike US Supras, UK cars don't seem to have a Relay to supply this feed, so it comes through the ignition switch. This also creates another problem, in that this wire then has to go through the Alarm to immobilise the car, adding another source of resistance (increasing with age).
I suggest a very simple modification which overcomes ALL these problems with minimum effort! Fit a Starter Relay, so that the Solenoid gets its power straight from the Battery - this relay can be powered by the existing Solenoid feed wire, as the relay takes a very small current to operate, any resistance problems become insignificant. This also means that the ignition switch and Immobiliser still work normally.
1. Buy a 12V Relay - best get an automotive one that is Plastic Encapsulated, with Spade connector terminals, and best with a mounting lug on the case.
2. Mount the relay on the Bulkhead on the Nearside of the engine - I found a spare 6mm tapped hole, so used this to mount the relay as well as provide the chassis connection.
3. Run a nice thick (20A) wire from the + side of the battery to one side of the Relay contacts - the other switch contact goes to the Starter Solenoid, so needs a standard Spade Connector on the end.
4. One side of the Relay coil goes to the chassis, the original Solenoid feed goes to the other side of the coil (the original spade connector should just push onto the relay terminal, if you mount it near enough)
Note: As with any work on the car, disconnect the battery first! I also soldered all the wires onto the Relay terminals and taped the whole load up with insulating tape, apart from the terminal for the original Solenoid feed spade connector to push on.
15-09-05, 08:26 PM
2jz and 1jz adjustable cam gears WILL fit the 7Mgte....
1. You need a spacer/washer behind the cam gear as it sits furthur toward the engine than the stock by 3-4mm
2. The TDC mark on the 2jz lies at the peak of the tooth, were the 7m lies in the valley, simple rotate the cam adjustment 1/2 a tooth to line up the with original 7m Cam.
Voila, findanza, Aem, HKS 2jz cam gears can be got a lot easier and cheaper than 7m ones :bigeyes:
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